A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.

Sawing

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the info you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a novice.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.

Conserve this for later on.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a consistent and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Repairing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability prior to you purchase.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big range of different attachments including drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Starting to Saw:.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but mild pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again as soon as sawing is total.
File to finish.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Likewise dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to ensure an exact result each time.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to move a more intricate design onto metal. Then prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

Piercing.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Fixing:.

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