Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into challenging areas.
Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper path to effective sawing every time.
When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. The table listed below includes all the info you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Conserve this for later.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to direct the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various attachments including drill bits.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Also dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Beginning to Saw:.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a newbie.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to preserve a steady and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
Tools for Piercing: There are lots of various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most crucial thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to make sure a precise result whenever.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to show the tension is right. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the procedure again till its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a constant however gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again when sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to move a more intricate style onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.