A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing each time.

There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult locations.

When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. The table listed below consists of all the information you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Piercing.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to show the tension is right. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the process again till its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure a precise outcome every time.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Repairing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes best. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a gentle and constant action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Starting to Saw:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.

Conserve this for later.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to finish.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

Troubleshooting:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

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