Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for small scale jobs, but the choice is down to personal choice.
There have been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into hard locations.
Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right path to successful sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. The table listed below includes all the details you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely adequate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you purchase.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a mild and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a novice.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
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Beginning to Saw:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to show the tension is right. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the process again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use efficiently.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an accurate result whenever.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the very same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a mild however constant pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to end up.
Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). If you want to transfer a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.