Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the first step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing each time.
Another decision you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the details you will require to select the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Installing a blade into a saw:
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use efficiently.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Beginning to Saw:.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an accurate result every time.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a consistent and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Conserve this for later.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Also do not be lured to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping just undo and duplicate the procedure again till its. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a constant but gentle pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to end up.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge range of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes best. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.