There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into difficult areas.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Another decision you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. The table listed below consists of all the info you will require to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Installing a blade into a saw:
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you want to move a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle ought to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a novice.
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but constant pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
Submit to end up.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use successfully.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to preserve a consistent and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Beginning to Saw:.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Conserve this for later on.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability prior to you purchase.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact result each time.
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.