There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Another choice you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something totally different and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the information you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Installing a blade into a saw:
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different accessories including drill bits.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage need to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability before you purchase.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pressed down and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use effectively.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.
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Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to keep a mild and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Beginning to Saw:.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact result each time.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you want to transfer a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the style onto the metal.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to end up.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.