There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right course to successful sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the information you will require to choose the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability before you purchase.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and repeat the procedure again till its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an accurate outcome whenever.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Conserve this for later on.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but mild pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again once sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Beginning to Saw:.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use efficiently.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.
Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to transfer a more intricate design onto metal. Then prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Once you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a gentle and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
Tools for Piercing: There are numerous different methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.