A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic function size for little scale tasks, however the choice is down to individual preference.

Sawing

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds unlimited possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.

Another decision you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into challenging areas.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the information you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Setting up a blade into a saw:

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Starting to Saw:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Troubleshooting:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a novice.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again when sawing is total.
File to finish.

Piercing.

Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). If you desire to move a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a mild and consistent action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Save this for later on.

Fixing:.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an exact result whenever.

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