A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough areas.

Sawing

Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the details you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Installing a blade into a saw:

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you buy.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however continuous pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to finish.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Save this for later on.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage ought to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the process again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Piercing.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure a precise outcome each time.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Fixing:.

Repairing:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to preserve a steady and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes best. Nevertheless, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different accessories including drill bits.

Starting to Saw:.

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