Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the first step in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper path to effective sawing whenever.
Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for little scale tasks, however the choice is down to individual preference.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very fine. The table listed below contains all the information you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Setting up a blade into a saw:
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Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Starting to Saw:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you buy.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage ought to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the process again until its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will lead to it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a constant and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to complete.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of different attachments including drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee a precise outcome every time.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use effectively.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.