Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the proper path to effective sawing every time.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general function size for small scale jobs, but the option is down to individual preference.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. The table listed below contains all the information you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Installing a blade into a saw:
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to move a more complicated style onto metal. Before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the style onto the metal.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge range of different attachments including drill bits.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the procedure again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most crucial thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use effectively.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a newbie.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an accurate result every time.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however mild pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again as soon as sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to maintain a gentle and consistent action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.
Starting to Saw:.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.
Conserve this for later on.