There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult areas.
When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic purpose size for small scale projects, but the option is down to individual preference.
Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Although most of us recognize with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing whenever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. The table listed below contains all the information you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely adequate. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Installing a blade into a saw:
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and consistent action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee a precise result each time.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to unwind. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you buy.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
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Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to end up.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a newbie.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different accessories including drill bits.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Beginning to Saw:.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.