A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another choice you need to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right path to successful sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. The table below contains all the info you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Setting up a blade into a saw:

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Likewise do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Fixing:.

Beginning to Saw:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to guarantee a precise outcome whenever.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle but continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again once sawing is total.
File to complete.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Piercing.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage must face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Save this for later.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).

Fixing:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and constant action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

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