Another decision you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for little scale tasks, but the option is down to personal preference.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something totally various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the correct course to successful sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the details you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use successfully.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a mild but continuous pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again once sawing is total.
Submit to end up.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to maintain a stable and mild action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.
Beginning to Saw:.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to unwind. Also dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different accessories including drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a novice.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to show the stress is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and repeat the procedure again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to assist the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Conserve this for later on.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee a precise result whenever.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.