A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.

When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very great. The table listed below includes all the information you will need to select the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Installing a blade into a saw:

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability before you buy.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate result every time.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes best. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Fixing:.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you wish to move a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then before moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

Piercing.

Troubleshooting:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.

Conserve this for later on.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage ought to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is right. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and duplicate the procedure again until its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Beginning to Saw:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to preserve a stable and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
File to finish.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

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