There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough areas.
Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for little scale projects, but the option is down to individual choice.
Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely fine. The table listed below contains all the info you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Installing a blade into a saw:
Beginning to Saw:.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you want to transfer a more complex design onto metal. Before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a constant and gentle action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Conserve this for later on.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability before you buy.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle however constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again once sawing is total.
Submit to complete.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure a precise outcome whenever.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to reveal the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the procedure again until its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.