There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the first action in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds limitless possibilities. Although most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right course to successful sawing whenever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for little scale tasks, however the option is down to personal preference.
When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very great. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below includes all the info you will require to pick the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.
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As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is complete.
Submit to end up.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Starting to Saw:.
Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the very same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.
Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). If you want to move a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure a precise outcome every time.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to keep a steady and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.