A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.

Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for small scale jobs, however the option is down to personal preference.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Installing a blade into a saw:

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Starting to Saw:.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a mild and constant action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Repairing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Likewise do not be tempted to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Repairing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

Piercing.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again when sawing is total.
Submit to end up.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure a precise result each time.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Tools for Piercing: There are numerous various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. The most essential thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Save this for later on.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

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