When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the proper course to effective sawing each time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic function size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to individual preference.
There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very great. The table listed below includes all the info you will need to select the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly appropriate. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an exact result whenever.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a mild and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is proper. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and repeat the procedure again up until its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you purchase.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
Beginning to Saw:.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of various accessories including drill bits.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.
Save this for later on.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous but gentle pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again when sawing is complete.
Submit to complete.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Tools for Piercing: There are many various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a novice.
The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.