A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough locations.

Another choice you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general purpose size for small scale projects, however the choice is down to personal preference.

Sawing

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the information you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability before you buy.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a gentle and constant action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Piercing.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Conserve this for later on.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes best. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again as soon as sawing is total.
Submit to end up.

Repairing:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to unwind. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Beginning to Saw:.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Repairing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an exact outcome every time.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to move a more complex style onto metal. Then before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most crucial thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

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