A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into hard areas.

Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic purpose size for little scale jobs, but the option is down to personal choice.

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to very great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the details you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Installing a blade into a saw:

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Also dont be lured to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Save this for later on.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Piercing.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a consistent and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however continuous pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again once sawing is total.
File to end up.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the very same. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Beginning to Saw:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.

Repairing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an accurate result whenever.

Troubleshooting:.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

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