A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into difficult areas.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something completely various and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below contains all the information you will require to select the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Installing a blade into a saw:

Troubleshooting:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability before you buy.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge range of different accessories including drill bits.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Piercing.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use effectively.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however constant pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to end up.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate outcome each time.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Conserve this for later on.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to move a more complicated style onto metal. Then before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the design onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Fixing:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Starting to Saw:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a constant and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

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