A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something totally different and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing each time.

Sawing

When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. The table listed below consists of all the details you will require to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however constant pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again as soon as sawing is total.
Submit to end up.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a mild and steady action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

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Repairing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you want to move a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

Troubleshooting:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Piercing.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Beginning to Saw:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is right. If you do not hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the process again until its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use successfully.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an exact result each time.

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