A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.

Another decision you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a range of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into challenging areas.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for little scale jobs, however the option is down to personal choice.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the details you will require to select the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an exact outcome whenever.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Starting to Saw:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes best. However, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a novice.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Save this for later on.

Repairing:.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).

Tools for Piercing: There are numerous different ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Piercing.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Troubleshooting:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but continuous pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to end up.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a stable and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

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