A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general purpose size for little scale tasks, however the option is down to personal preference.

Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the first action in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something totally different and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the principle of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have created this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. The table below includes all the information you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely adequate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Installing a blade into a saw:

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Repairing:.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to end up.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the procedure again till its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Fixing:.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a novice.

Piercing.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a steady and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Save this for later on.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of various attachments including drill bits.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.

Beginning to Saw:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes best. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure a precise outcome whenever.

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