Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something totally different and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the proper path to successful sawing every time.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard locations.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. The table below contains all the info you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee a precise outcome whenever.
Starting to Saw:.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to reveal the stress is proper. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the procedure once again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a gentle and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however constant pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again once sawing is total.
File to end up.
Conserve this for later on.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.