A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into difficult locations.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right course to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. The table listed below contains all the details you will require to select the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Installing a blade into a saw:

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use successfully.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a steady and mild action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Troubleshooting:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is right. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the procedure once again until its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes best. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Fixing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an exact result each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Piercing.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.

Tools for Piercing: There are many various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most crucial thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Conserve this for later on.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again once sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

Starting to Saw:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

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