A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult areas.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. The table listed below includes all the information you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Installing a blade into a saw:

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Repairing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

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Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a constant and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an exact result each time.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Beginning to Saw:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a constant however gentle pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again once sawing is total.
File to end up.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes best. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability prior to you purchase.

Repairing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

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