Saw piercing is likely to be among the first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something completely various and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper path to effective sawing whenever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for small scale projects, however the option is down to personal preference.
There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the info you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.
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Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most crucial thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
Starting to Saw:.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again as soon as sawing is total.
Submit to complete.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to preserve a mild and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure a precise outcome whenever.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a novice.