A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic purpose size for little scale tasks, however the choice is down to individual choice.

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something completely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable in the beginning, which is why we have assembled this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing whenever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. The table listed below consists of all the info you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely adequate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Installing a blade into a saw:

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points). If you want to move a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. When you have re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

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Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
File to end up.

Piercing.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Starting to Saw:.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee a precise outcome each time.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big range of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Also dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a mild and steady action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Repairing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Troubleshooting:.

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