Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing every time.
When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very great. The table below contains all the info you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Installing a blade into a saw:
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use successfully.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of different accessories including drill bits.
Save this for later on.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you desire to transfer a more intricate style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to maintain a constant and mild action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a newbie.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Also do not be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but constant pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again when sawing is total.
File to end up.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Beginning to Saw:.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an exact outcome whenever.