A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right course to successful sawing whenever.

Sawing

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general function size for little scale projects, however the option is down to personal choice.

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough areas.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very great. The table below consists of all the info you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Installing a blade into a saw:

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Piercing.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a mild and steady action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Repairing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Starting to Saw:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability prior to you buy.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Fixing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an accurate outcome every time.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again once sawing is complete.
File to finish.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Conserve this for later on.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Tools for Piercing: There are many different ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

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