A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Another choice you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right path to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. The table listed below includes all the information you will need to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Installing a blade into a saw:

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Conserve this for later.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a novice.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Starting to Saw:.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Likewise do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to preserve a gentle and consistent action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Fixing:.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however continuous pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
File to complete.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure a precise outcome whenever.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Repairing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various accessories including drill bits.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability before you buy.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Piercing.

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