A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing every time.

Sawing

When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard locations.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely fine. The table below contains all the info you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Installing a blade into a saw:

The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Beginning to Saw:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a novice.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use successfully.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Repairing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Repairing:.

Conserve this for later.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a steady and gentle action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Piercing.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability before you purchase.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to make sure an accurate outcome every time.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but mild pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again as soon as sawing is total.
File to finish.

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