There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental in the beginning, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right course to successful sawing whenever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general purpose size for little scale tasks, but the option is down to personal choice.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the details you will require to select the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Installing a blade into a saw:
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to complete.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Beginning to Saw:.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a consistent and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure a precise result each time.
Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Conserve this for later on.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes best. Nevertheless, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use efficiently.
The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you purchase.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.