A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general purpose size for little scale tasks, but the option is down to individual preference.

Sawing

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. The table listed below consists of all the info you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Installing a blade into a saw:

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Troubleshooting:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.

Piercing.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of various accessories including drill bits.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a mild and constant action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Conserve this for later.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an exact outcome every time.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Beginning to Saw:.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).

When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a mild but continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to finish.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use efficiently.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a novice.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Troubleshooting:.

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