Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for little scale tasks, but the option is down to individual choice.
When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into challenging locations.
Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something totally different and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing whenever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the info you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Installing a blade into a saw:
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Starting to Saw:.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. However, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you buy.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee an accurate outcome each time.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of various attachments including drill bits.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a novice.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a constant and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again as soon as sawing is total.
File to finish.
Conserve this for later on.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.