Another choice you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general purpose size for small scale projects, however the option is down to individual preference.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into difficult areas.
Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right course to successful sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the information you will need to pick the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure a precise result each time.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Beginning to Saw:.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.
The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle should face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various attachments including drill bits.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Tools for Piercing: There are numerous different methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to keep a mild and constant action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a newbie.
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Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a mild but constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to complete.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use successfully.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.