A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something completely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing whenever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult areas.

When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. The table below consists of all the information you will require to select the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Installing a blade into a saw:

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Piercing.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Troubleshooting:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee a precise result every time.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability prior to you buy.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Beginning to Saw:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the very same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most essential thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but gentle pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again when sawing is complete.
File to end up.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use effectively.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a mild and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Troubleshooting:.

Conserve this for later.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. However, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

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