There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general function size for little scale jobs, however the option is down to individual choice.
Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right path to successful sawing whenever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. The table listed below contains all the details you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact outcome each time.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes best. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Save this for later.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to show the stress is right. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the procedure once again until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various accessories including drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you buy.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but mild pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again once sawing is total.
Submit to finish.
Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you want to move a more intricate design onto metal. Before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the style onto the metal.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a mild and steady action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Starting to Saw:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.