There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing each time.
Another choice you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below includes all the details you will require to select the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Tools for Piercing: There are numerous different methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the very same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most crucial thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure a precise outcome whenever.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to preserve a mild and stable action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Beginning to Saw:.
Save this for later on.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to finish.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.