Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for little scale jobs, however the choice is down to individual preference.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard locations.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something totally different and holds limitless possibilities. Although most of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have created this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. The table below consists of all the information you will require to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Beginning to Saw:.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an accurate outcome every time.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Save this for later on.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and constant action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to reveal the stress is correct. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the process again up until its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however constant pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again once sawing is total.
File to finish.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability prior to you purchase.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial range of different accessories including drill bits.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).
The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.