A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult locations.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Although many of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have created this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing whenever.

Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. The table listed below contains all the info you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Installing a blade into a saw:

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a mild and constant action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure a precise outcome whenever.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Conserve this for later on.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to move a more intricate design onto metal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Piercing.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

Beginning to Saw:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to reveal the stress is correct. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the process once again till its. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Fixing:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.

Troubleshooting:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to complete.

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