A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough locations.

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.

Sawing

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for small scale projects, but the choice is down to personal preference.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly fine. The table below includes all the information you will need to pick the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Piercing.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping simply undo and duplicate the procedure once again up until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Save this for later.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you buy.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an accurate outcome every time.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use efficiently.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again once sawing is complete.
Submit to finish.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to preserve a mild and consistent action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.

Troubleshooting:.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Beginning to Saw:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Repairing:.

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