Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to effective sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into challenging areas.
Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. The table below consists of all the details you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Installing a blade into a saw:
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage should face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is total.
Submit to complete.
Conserve this for later.
Beginning to Saw:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use successfully.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to direct the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an accurate result every time.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a constant and gentle action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.