A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the first action in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing each time.

Another choice you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally great. The table listed below includes all the information you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Installing a blade into a saw:

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Beginning to Saw:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Troubleshooting:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Likewise dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Conserve this for later on.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the right blade size/metal mix.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a constant and mild action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Piercing.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee a precise result whenever.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to end up.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage must face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and repeat the procedure once again up until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Troubleshooting:.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).

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