There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for little scale jobs, however the choice is down to personal choice.
When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing whenever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the info you will require to pick the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage should face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a stable and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most important thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different attachments including drill bits.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure a precise outcome whenever.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Conserve this for later.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you buy.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however mild pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again as soon as sawing is total.
File to end up.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Beginning to Saw:.