Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.
When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into challenging areas.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic purpose size for small scale tasks, however the choice is down to personal preference.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. The table listed below includes all the details you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Installing a blade into a saw:
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a gentle and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is correct. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the process once again till its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
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Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you want to move a more complicated design onto metal. Then before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an accurate result every time.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of various attachments including drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however gentle pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again once sawing is complete.
File to complete.
Starting to Saw:.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.