Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult locations.
Another decision you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for small scale jobs, however the option is down to individual preference.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the details you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.
Beginning to Saw:.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an accurate outcome whenever.
The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a gentle and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge range of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to complete.
Conserve this for later.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to transfer a more intricate style onto metal. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.